- Jun 28, 2018 -
When the wave have come to you, lift your chest and take a deep breath.
Use both hands pushing the head into the water, try to press the head as far as possible (the last two arms should straighten the plate into the water).
After the board enters the water, use one knee to stand on the surfboard to do the fulcrum. Lift the other foot up and head toward the head so that the weight of the whole body can further press the whole board into deeper water.
After the entire board sank into the water, the foot that originally held the board immediately stepped on the end of the board, allowing the end of the board to sink into the deepest part of the water.
As the tail sinks to the deepest point in the water, the head will float upwards due to its own buoyancy. At this time, do not apply force to change the direction of the board.
Flex your arms to rest your body against the board, and use your board's buoyancy to follow your body so that the body emerges with the board.